Salzburgher Hochthron.

I had a pretty good idea of where I needed to get, but I swear I had no idea of where to start the climb. So I hop behind the wheel, early in the morning, and drive to Grodig.

Once I reach my destination I pull in at the cable car station, walk in and ask for a map… which, much to my surprise, they don’t have. So I walk out with a gentleman and, in the parking lot, I show him the bigger map of the area and tell him where I want to climb, so he can give me further directions. In the neighboring village, after I’ve struggled to find a parking spot, I put my backpack on and start towards where I think the trail might start. I knew the summit was at 1852 m and that the town of Salzburg was situated at an altitude of 424 m; the difference was going to make up the day’s climb.

The local sign post kindly informs me that I need 3 hours and a half to reach the peak, Salzburgher Hochthron.

When I finally reach the trail it’s by crossing through some shrubs next to a bridge. And right off the bat, I can see it’s going to be a challenge. It’s a narrow path, and steep too, already set up with steps made of thick wooden beams. That can only meaning I’m looking at some serious climbing.

So I get on with it.

I put one step in front of the other and keep checking my watch. Every 2 or 3 steps marks an additional 1 m upwards. The climb was so badass that the first 2.66 km amounted to 1000 m elevation. It was hot and I clearly needed a thought to cool me down. So I smiled and thought back to February 2015, when I took part in my only winter night trail running race so far. The Mountain Assault competition, starting from outside the city-hall of Sinaia and climbing all the way to the Miorita Cabin, at 2000 m elevation. About 1200 m of vertical climb over a distance of 6 km. Cool race. And cool people, the Outdoor Romania guys. This thought manages to cool me down a bit, but it’s still hot as hell.

And I was still sweating like a man in a sauna. I hadn’t completely recovered from the strain I’d put myself through 2 days prior, on Schafberg, but I wasn’t climbing dramatically fast anyway. And since Austrians are all mountaineers at heart, I inevitably come across others, from couples of 65 year-olds to families hauling 2 or 3 children along, all of them climbing this trail. There aren’t many of them, but still. The climb becomes difficult, even dangerous every now and then, and as you reach the exit towards the alpine plain you finally see just how bad it can get. I found myself climbing wooden stairs almost as vertically as with an elevator. To my right was the cliff, to my left an enormous abyss over 1000 m deep. Oh, but the view! You could see Salzburg in all of its glory.

The trees give way to an impressive landscape of juniper shrubs. And in the midst of this shrubbery stands the Zeppezauer-Haus, a mountain cabin going back all the way to 1912. I leave it behind, climb another 300 m of vertical elevation, reach the upper station of the cable car, move right along and finally reach the peak. This is a vantage point that provides a complete panoramic view of the Alps, of almost all of the mountains in the Salzburg Land, and even of my beloved Kaiser, that is Wilder Kaiser, the starting point of the Tirol Land. By now the place is filled with tourists, which means I’m not going to linger, so I start my descent to the old cabin, a regular halting place for those who climb by foot and who gladly stop here for some beer or food. Naturally, I order beer and a bite to eat. Much to my delight, I’ve found room at a table right next to the edge of the abyss, which allows me a perfect view of Salzburg and of the beginning of the German mountains. Oh, right, Salzburgher Hochtorn lets you see into 2 countries at once.

I eat my meal and take my time drinking the beer, smiling to myself. Smiling because, while this was an entirely unplanned trip, it turned out epic.

Then I start back. However, the descent I’d rather not tell you anything about. Still, I am going to recommend the 410/417 trail, which climbs from the village of Glanegg to Salzburgher Hochthron. It’s well worth the effort.

P.S. Take it from me: you should never avoid older mountain cabins. The food is better, cheaper, and the people nicer. The beer is a bonus and one you’ve totally earned if you manage to reach the top (by foot).